Feastwood Clockworks and Mechanisms
Thank you to
all that visited my booth at this year’s GEARS show; the interest shown in
clocks and clock making was great to see, especially the kids watching the
Congreve clock.
Wooden Geared Clocks
Skeleton Clocks Orreries Construction Books Magazines Links
For those
interested in wooden geared clocks: the clock I displayed at GEARS was a Marc
Tolvar design. Marc’s wooden geared clocks are available at http://www.wooden-clockworks.com/
If you like
fanciful clock designs, kinetic sculpture, and orreries (clock work that shows
the motion of the moon and planets), check out Clayton Boyer’s clocks at www.lisaboyer.com. Clayton sells plans for
most of the clocks you can see on his site, and like Marc Tolvar’s clocks, only
require a scroll saw, drill, and simple hand tools to build. I really like Clayton’s clocks; I have the
plans for several of his clocks, and plan to start on his Nautilus clock soon.
While these
clocks look complex and a bit daunting as construction projects, don’t doubt
your ability to build them. I built the
MLT5 shown here:
with
essentially no woodworking experience, and no scroll saw experience at all.
Cutting out the parts takes time and some patience, but I found this to be a
very fun project, and I look forward to building my next wooden clock. Some
tips:
· A good scroll saw will cost you $150 or more; make sure it is variable
speed, the throat is at least 16 inches, and that it is not light and flimsy.
While you will want to clamp it down to your work bench, it should still be
solidly constructed so that it’s sufficiently rigid.
· You will need to experiment with
tensioning the saw blade; it needs to be firmly tensioned rather than flexible.
Experimenting with some scrap wood and different tension settings will be prove valuable.
· Also experiment with cutting curves
and tight angles. With practice you will find that you can cut very tight
curves, and essentially cut interior right angles when needed. An easy way to
make sharp interior corners is to drill a hole at the corner slightly larger
than the width of your saw blade.
After a
couple hours of practice, go ahead and start on your clock. One nice thing
about wood is that it’s a pretty forgiving material, often being easily
repairable using glue; and if you ruin a piece, you have only lost time rather
than money (except for some of the rare, exotic woods.)
Baltic birch
is recommended for the gears of a wooden clock. This is because as a plywood, it is resistant to shearing in all directions.
The forces on a clock tooth, when parallel to the grain of solid wood, can
cause a gear tooth to break off. Baltic birch plywood is available from Rockler and other lumber supply and wood
working outlets.
These are my
favorite kind of clock. I enjoy seeing the mechanism of a clock, and as a clock
builder, I appreciate not having to build elaborate wooden cases for the clocks
I build. These are two examples of skeleton clocks I have built; both designs
are by John Wilding (see Construction Books for information on books by John
Wilding):
The image on
the left is of a traditional English eight day clock, striking once on the
hour. The two images on the right are of the Congreve rolling ball clock, with
additional moon work of my own design (this clock is a work in progress; note
the absence of dials and hands).
Skeleton
clocks were originally in vogue in the mid-19th century; by the
early 20th century, few were being made. The majority of clock construction
books are for skeleton clocks, since this style is popular with clock builders,
and does not require both metal machining and woodworking skills in order to
build the entire clock yourself. Of course, you are free to buy as many
pre-made parts as you wish; dials, hands, and bells for example, are readily
available (see Links). For some clocks, even the plates (frames) and gears are
available.
A couple of
good books on skeleton clocks, both having many photos and descriptions, are “Skeleton
Clocks” by F. B. Royer-Collard, and “Skeleton Clocks – Britain 1800-1914” by
Derek Roberts. The latter is available at Derek Roberts Antiques. This
same site also has the book “Continental and American Skeleton Clocks.” I don’t
know of a source for new editions of the F. B. Royer-Collard book
, but G.K. Hadfield may
have it; try also Shenton Books, Jeffrey Formby Antiques, or Antoine Simonin.
Books I have
for sale, all by John Wilding:
Title |
Condition |
Price |
|
|
Sold |
|
|
How to
Make a Simple 16th Century Style Clock |
Very good |
$40 |
|
How to
Make a Simple Battery Driven Electric Clock |
Very good |
$40 |
|
Machining
& Constructing a "Castle" Clock |
Fair (2"
tear in dust jacket) |
$40 |
|
How to
Make an English Regulator Clock |
Very good |
$40 |
|
How to
Make Galileo's Escapement |
Very good |
$35 |
|
How to
Make a Replica of an 18th Century 30 Hour Weight Driven Alarm Clock |
Good |
$40 |
|
Hints and
Tips for Clockmakers and Repairers vol. 2 |
Very good |
$35 |
|
Hints and
Tips for Clockmakers and Repairers vol. 1 |
Very
good |
$35 |
|
How to
Repair Antique Clocks vol. 1 |
Good |
$35 |
|
How to
Repair Antique Clocks vol. 2 |
Fair (small
tears in dust jacket) |
$30 |
|
How to
Repair Antique Clocks vol. 2 |
Good |
$35 |
|
How to
Repair Antique Clocks vol. 4 |
Good |
$35 |
All of the
books are complete and in good shape; they are all used books, but you
generally have to look closely at those I describe as 'Very good' in order to
tell they are not new. 'Good' usually means some slight scuffing or wrinkles.
Contact me at fcm@teleport.com for info
on how to purchase.
Rite Time
Publishing has been the standard source for new editions of John Wilding’s
books; right now you cannot order from their web site, but they will send you a
catalog: www.ritetimepublishing.com.
Ian T. Cobb in the UK also has Wilding’s
books (and others), but you will need to pay more in shipping if you are in the
USA.
Guy Lautard also has books and plans for several
clocks.
More content
coming soon!!!
Email: fcm@teleport.com